Found this excellent article and thought i would share it with you lovely people
A year or so ago, I was walking my dog through our in-town neighborhood, when out of nowhere a LARGE shepherd mix came bounding towards us (without a leash) with trouble on her mind. Having worked so frequently with aggressive dogs I could see that for whatever reason, this dog had seen us coming and decided that Nola might be good for lunch - and there was no owner in sight. Since it takes two to tango, my first step was to keep Nola from engaging in the aggression. I gave her a “Down!”, and she hit the bricks (on the sidewalk), and she stayed there although her teeth were bared and she was beginning to growl. I kept myself between the two dogs, as I could tell that the dog didn’t want any piece of me - just my dog, and I effectively herded the dog away from Nola, who stayed there on the ground despite all of the commtion. Eventually my firm shouts of “No!” and “Go on!” at the other dog must have aroused the owner’s attention, as they came running out of the house to grab their dog. While I did return later (without Nola) to tell the owner that an offleash uncontrolled attack dog was kinda “bad form”, the point of my telling you this story is to show you how useful a resolute down/stay in an energized situation can be. In part one of this series, we taught our dog how to sit using our body language and our dog’s natural response to waiting while in hunting mode. We used a small platform (”on the box”) as a way to delimit space for our dog, an aid in Sparky’s figuring out what to do. In part two of this series, we went from “Sit” to “Down” - also using the box - in order to teach our dog the feeling of lying down in an energized state. Obedience matters most when your dog is “distracted” (absorbed in the energy of their environment) - and the only way for you to be able to reach your dog during these moments is for your dog to be familiar with the feeling of engaging in obedience behaviors WHEN energized. In this lesson, we’re going to work on “Stay”, and the Down/Stay will become an essential part of your training regimen.
What does it mean to “Stay”?
The concept is simple enough: you tell your dog to “stay” and your dog remains in that one place. However, the “stay” is only effective as long as the energy of your dog’s environment keeps your dog rooted in place. Otherwise, something “out there” could become more attractive to your dog than the staying, and your dog’s prey drive will kick into action to chase that bicycle, grab that treat, etc.
I’m telling you this because I want you to see the stay not as an exercise of your dog’s willpower. Since dog’s are more feeling-oriented than thought-oriented, their willpower won’t hold up under duress. You are going to be teaching your dog how to be more and more rooted in their spot as more energy is added to the system. It will feel good to your dog to remain where they are. Picture your dog lying in an attentive down (the “down” you elicited in part two), and now imagine a current of energy flowing through your dog, down into the ground, back up into your dog - in a circuit. If you can keep your dog relaxed, you will be able to add more energy to the system, and that circuit will spin faster and faster. The intensity of the circuit will work like a magnet, holding your dog rooted to that spot. In a sense, you are teaching your dog to “feel the flow” - the same flow that they feel when they’re playing tug-of-war with you - while lying there in one spot. Just like electrical magnetism builds as you increase the current in a coil of wire, the emotional magnetism will increase the faster the emotional circuit spins. The important factors for YOU to control are keeping your dog relaxed and gradually adding more and more energy to the system.
Making the “stay” happen
OK, so you’ve gotten your dog onto the box and into the down position. You can still be totally in the realm of body language and hand signals, but if you’ve introduced your voice that’s fine too. At the initial stages of this training, I’ll often progress from “on the box” to “sit” to “down” - but frequently a dog will just go into the “down” at the first whiskaway - it’s the internal efficiency mechanism at work. That’s good, because down is ultimately what you’re after (and a much more useful command, IMHO).
The hand signal that I use for “Stay” is my left hand extended in front of me, palm out, fingers pointed to the sky - as if you were signalling someone to “Stop right there!”. Your hand should be extended with the “stop right there” attitude as well - because your intent (which matters) is for your dog to remain in place, completely rooted to their spot. I’m going to explain the progression as I go through it with a very energized (and prone-to-popping-up-from-the-down) dog - if your dog stays rooted easily, then you can move through the series rather easily.
Get your dog into the down position - you may need to be crouched in order for this to happen.
Feed the position with your right hand.
Hold out your left hand in the “Stay right there” position.
Keep feeding the position, while you SLOWLY raise your body.
Once you’re standing, feed the position some more.
Good - you got to a standing position, and your dog is still energized. You’re standing more or less next to your dog - maybe slightly in front, but not directly in front. Now for the next step.
Take a few steps in place. As if you were marching in place. Just start by shuffling your feet a little - slowly and gradually. Your left hand is still extended in the “stay right there” position.
Feed the position.
Start taking stronger steps. By “stronger” I mean to gradually increase the force with which you’re feet are hitting the ground. You could also start increasing the pace of your steps.
Feed the position.
This would probably be a good time to take a break. Give your dog a “Ready…Sparky!” - and then run away from the box. Your dog will spring off the box after you, and you should do some pushing together (or some tug-of-war), before you get back on the box. Lots of praise at this point! OK, back to the box.
Work your way up to where you were before.
Add more energy to the system. Run in place.
Feed the position.
Jump in the air. Just a small jump, but both feet leave the ground.
Feed the position.
Jump higher. Feed the position. Go crazy. Feed the position.
Give a slow, gradual tug on the leash. Feed the position.
Give a couple quick jerks on the leash. Feed the position.
Maybe you’re getting the spirit at this point? You’re near your dog and gradually upping the ante with energy that you add to the moment, each time keeping your dog in place with your “stay in position” hand and by feeding the position as soon as your dog has succeeded.
Make sure that you take breaks after your dog reaches each milestone to push and play. Then get your dog back on the box and take it to the next level.
What to do if your dog pops back up from the down position
You have a couple choices at this point. If you catch your dog as they’re about to get up, you can actually preemptively call your dog off the box. Or you can use your food hand (with a whiskaway) to get your dog back into the “down” position. Your dog’s popping up is a sign that you added too much energy to the system - so take it more slowly. Allow your dog to educate you in terms of the correct pace of training, which will ensure that you’re building upon multiple successes with your dog - if you’re too focused on your agenda then you might set your dog up to fail too often. A “failure” here and there (which is really a sign that you failed to work at a slow enough pace) is ok, but too many will undermine your dog’s confidence. Slower and more gradual is ALWAYS better.
Some variations to get you to the next level
Back away from the box with your “stay” hand outstretched. Back away slowly a few feet. Then go back and feed the position. Back away a few feet more this time. Give your dog a “Ready…” - but instead of calling them off the box (make sure your hand is still in the “stay right there” position as you say “ready”) move back in and feed the position. Back away a third time, and this time say “Ready…” - then drop your “stay hand”, call your dog off the box with their name, and do some pushing and tug. Gradually increase your distance from the box. If your dog has the tendency to pop up when you move away, you can keep a slight amount of tension on the leash, and your dog should counteract that tension by becoming more rooted in their place on the box.
Circle your dog. Start circling (counterclockwise) in close proximity to your dog. Sometimes at the beginning of circling I’ll actually drop a handfull of food on the box right under a dog’s mouth, so that they’re distracted with eating the food while I circle around them. You might also need to maintain contact with a hand (keep your left fingertip on their head while giving the “stay” gesture with your right hand) as you circle around. When you come back around to your dog’s right side, feed the position, and take a break to give your dog a little relaxing massage. Try to circle around at greater and greater distances.
Important note on circling:
As you circle around, there are two things for you to do that will help your dog stay in position. First thing is - instead of keeping your left hand out in a “stay” position as you circle around, allow your arms to swing freely (as they normally do when you walk) - you might even exaggerate the movement. Every couple of swings of your left arm, extend your hand out in the “stay” position towards your dog (at this point I’m also saying “Stay!” as I present my left hand). Your movement helps keep your dog focused on you, and helps establish a rhythm for what you’re doing - which will make the exercise more predictable for your dog. So that’s tip #1.
Tip #2: The place where your dog is most likely to pop up as you make your circle is when you’re directly behind your dog, out of sight. So, take note of where that is (you’ll notice that your dog will probably move their head from one side to the other as they try to pick you up in their field of vision), and give your dog a “Stay” right before you leave their sight. Then walk faster until you’re back in your dog’s field of vision. Try to time another “Stay” so that your dog sees the “stay” gesture (and hears “Stay”) at the instant that they regain sight of you.
Especially as you move out to greater and greater distances, when you come back around to your dog’s side feed the position, take a moment to help your dog relax now that you’re back, and then call your dog off the box for some play. The play (and/or pushing) is a way to help your dog relieve any residual tension that they have from each phase of the exercise.
Conclusion
Over time your dog will develop a steadfast “stay”, and you’ll be able to move away further - to the point where you’re even completely out of sight. You can hide for a few moments behind a tree, or leave your dog in the backyard as you circle around your house - the options for working with the stay are endless. The trick is to always remember to take play time between “stays” to help release any excess stress, to keep your dog energized throughout the down/stay, and to be VERY GRADUAL in the amount of energy (and or distance) that you add to your down/stay repertoire. Ultimately the down/stay will be an important tool for you in your relationship with your dog - you’ll be able to use it to instantly defuse any highly energized or tense situation, or to just keep your dog out of the way while the family eats dinner. Take it slow, practice consistently, keep it fun, and, as always, let me know if you have any questions.
http://www.naturaldogblog.com/
Friday, 15 August 2008
Thursday, 14 August 2008
Dog Parvo Symptoms and Prevention
Parvovirus is a very serious disease that affects puppies as well as full-grown dogs. This disease can be deadly if the symptoms are not detected right away. It is also very contagious, so infected dogs need to be identified right away and separated from any other dogs. Here is how to know if a dog has contracted parvo and how to prevent infection and spread of the disease.
What is Parvo
Parvo is short for parvovirus. This virus grows in the rapidly dividing cells of the intestinal lining, killing them. Because of this, the dog’s body is not able to absorb calories and nutrition.
The parvo virus also suppresses the growth of white blood cells. Parvo can affect the heart of young puppies and cause them to die quite quickly.
Parvo is spread through contact with an infected dog or its feces. The symptoms will typically start showing up after 7-10 days from the time of exposure to an infected dog. A parvo test will not be able to show a reliable result until the week to two week period is over.
The most common time for a puppy to contract parvo is at 14-20 weeks of age. Doberman Pinschers, Rottweiler’s and Pit Bull Terriers are particularly susceptible to parvo.
A dog with no symptoms can transmit the disease and infect another dog. Even if the dog has been vaccinated, it can still give another dog parvo.
While there is no cure for parvo, the dog can be treated to combat the symptoms, and sometimes the dog’s body is able to combat the disease. If a dog makes it after eight days of battling the disease, they have a better rate of survival. After two weeks the dog should make a full recovery.
Early Symptoms of Parvo
The early symptoms of Parvo are sometimes hard to detect. The dog may seem unusually tired and quiet with a high fever. They may refuse to eat. This can be followed by vomiting and diarrhea. Most of the time, parvo infected dogs will have bloody diarrhea, which is a good sign that they should be taken to the vet.
Advanced Symptoms
If left unchecked, dogs infected with parvo can become increasingly sick in a short period of time. The vomiting and diarrhea may become severe. This leads dehydration and malnutrition. Most dogs will soon go into shock and their bodies will seize up. The muscles will become stiff and hard and the dog will not respond to voices.
Some dogs may have seizures by this point. Within hours the dog will die without medical help.
Parvo Prevention
Parvo is a very hardy disease that can be transmitted very easily through touch. Even if a dog never comes in contact with another diseased dog it can still contract it through other animals, people, bugs, and objects that have come in contact with the diseased dog or feces.
The virus can be killed with a strong concentration (a ration of 1 part water to 20 parts bleach) of bleach scrubbed on contaminated objects. If left without cleaning, the parvo virus can live on objects for as long as nine months or longer.
The only guaranteed way to prevent a dog from contracting parvo is to get it vaccinated with a distemper vaccine as soon as possible. Puppies are particularly susceptible to parvo, since they have underdeveloped immune systems. A puppy can be immunized as soon as 12 weeks of age and will need two more injection several weeks later.
Watch your new puppy for the symptoms of parvo and you will have a better chance of saving its life. Vaccinate your puppy and know pet will be safe from this horrible disease.
Parvovirus is a very serious disease that affects puppies as well as full-grown dogs. This disease can be deadly if the symptoms are not detected right away. It is also very contagious, so infected dogs need to be identified right away and separated from any other dogs. Here is how to know if a dog has contracted parvo and how to prevent infection and spread of the disease.
What is Parvo
Parvo is short for parvovirus. This virus grows in the rapidly dividing cells of the intestinal lining, killing them. Because of this, the dog’s body is not able to absorb calories and nutrition.
The parvo virus also suppresses the growth of white blood cells. Parvo can affect the heart of young puppies and cause them to die quite quickly.
Parvo is spread through contact with an infected dog or its feces. The symptoms will typically start showing up after 7-10 days from the time of exposure to an infected dog. A parvo test will not be able to show a reliable result until the week to two week period is over.
The most common time for a puppy to contract parvo is at 14-20 weeks of age. Doberman Pinschers, Rottweiler’s and Pit Bull Terriers are particularly susceptible to parvo.
A dog with no symptoms can transmit the disease and infect another dog. Even if the dog has been vaccinated, it can still give another dog parvo.
While there is no cure for parvo, the dog can be treated to combat the symptoms, and sometimes the dog’s body is able to combat the disease. If a dog makes it after eight days of battling the disease, they have a better rate of survival. After two weeks the dog should make a full recovery.
Early Symptoms of Parvo
The early symptoms of Parvo are sometimes hard to detect. The dog may seem unusually tired and quiet with a high fever. They may refuse to eat. This can be followed by vomiting and diarrhea. Most of the time, parvo infected dogs will have bloody diarrhea, which is a good sign that they should be taken to the vet.
Advanced Symptoms
If left unchecked, dogs infected with parvo can become increasingly sick in a short period of time. The vomiting and diarrhea may become severe. This leads dehydration and malnutrition. Most dogs will soon go into shock and their bodies will seize up. The muscles will become stiff and hard and the dog will not respond to voices.
Some dogs may have seizures by this point. Within hours the dog will die without medical help.
Parvo Prevention
Parvo is a very hardy disease that can be transmitted very easily through touch. Even if a dog never comes in contact with another diseased dog it can still contract it through other animals, people, bugs, and objects that have come in contact with the diseased dog or feces.
The virus can be killed with a strong concentration (a ration of 1 part water to 20 parts bleach) of bleach scrubbed on contaminated objects. If left without cleaning, the parvo virus can live on objects for as long as nine months or longer.
The only guaranteed way to prevent a dog from contracting parvo is to get it vaccinated with a distemper vaccine as soon as possible. Puppies are particularly susceptible to parvo, since they have underdeveloped immune systems. A puppy can be immunized as soon as 12 weeks of age and will need two more injection several weeks later.
Watch your new puppy for the symptoms of parvo and you will have a better chance of saving its life. Vaccinate your puppy and know pet will be safe from this horrible disease.
Dog Behaviour Problems and How to Fix Them
Dog behaviour problems can lead to frustration for both you and your pet. Don’t give up! You can fix these problems with a little work and these tips. These are simple steps that can be done without forcibly reprimanding your dog for an impulse that may be second nature or improper training.
Barking Problems
Most dogs bark for two reasons. They are either wary of their environment or they have emotional issues (see below for more on emotional issues). The best way to cure your dog’s behavior problem is to fix the trigger for his barking.
For example, if your dog barks because he is afraid of people, try to keep him away from people. This can sound like an impossible task, but it is doable with a little thought. Try keeping the blinds closed so that your dog can’t see outside. Keep your dog in his crate in another room when people come to visit. Put a sheet over his crate when you are at the airport so that he can’t see other travelers. You get the idea.
Emotions
Dogs can be very emotional. More times than not, these emotions can be manifested as bad behaviour problems.
Lack of attention is a common emotional problem. When a dog doesn’t receive enough attention, they can act out inappropriately. They may chew on your shoes, scratch the furniture, or dig in the trash. No matter what they do, this is a cry for more loving. Even if the only attention that results from the misbehavior is a swat on the tail, to the dog that’s better than no attention at all.
To solve emotional dog behavioral problems, the owner can simply make an effort to spend more time with his dog. It is important to do this before the dog misbehaves. Punishing her or paying attention to her in any way after the fact only reinforces the misbehavior. The dog thinks, “Gee, chewing on the couch really works!” That’s not the message you want to be making!
Some of the things that you can do to show your dog more attention are:
· Walk her before you go to work
· Play ball with him
· Practice tricks or commands (complete with treats for a job well done)
· Scratch her head while you watch TV
· Take him swimming at the lake
· Take her to the biking trail with you
· Play Frisbee in the park
Reinforcing Good Behavior and Banishing the Bad
Reinforcing good behavior will make it stick, leaving your dog with permanent good manners.
Always give your dogs treats when you come home and the trash isn’t turned over, for instance. Point to the trash and say, “Good boy!” Then give your dog a treat.
On the other hand, if you come home and the trash is turned over, say nothing. Calmly set the can upright, clean the floor, and ignore the mess maker. Yelling will only give your dog attention for the naughty deed, reinforcing the bad habit.
Yelling can also confuse your dog. Dogs understand yelling as barking. Yelling may encourage your dog to think that barking is a great idea. Use a firm, steady voice when talking to your dog. You don’t have to yell to get across the point that you are disappointed in him. He’ll know by the inflection in your voice.
No matter what, be consistent with your dog. If he gets ignored today for knocking over the trash, make sure he gets ignored tomorrow and the day after. Falling back into old discipline patterns will make your dog fall back into bad behavior, as well. Also, make sure that rewards are just as consistent. Good behavior should be rewarded every time so that your dog always knows what to expect.
If your dog knows what to expect, is given plenty of attention, and is disciplined properly, you can solve most dog behavior problems.
Dog behaviour problems can lead to frustration for both you and your pet. Don’t give up! You can fix these problems with a little work and these tips. These are simple steps that can be done without forcibly reprimanding your dog for an impulse that may be second nature or improper training.
Barking Problems
Most dogs bark for two reasons. They are either wary of their environment or they have emotional issues (see below for more on emotional issues). The best way to cure your dog’s behavior problem is to fix the trigger for his barking.
For example, if your dog barks because he is afraid of people, try to keep him away from people. This can sound like an impossible task, but it is doable with a little thought. Try keeping the blinds closed so that your dog can’t see outside. Keep your dog in his crate in another room when people come to visit. Put a sheet over his crate when you are at the airport so that he can’t see other travelers. You get the idea.
Emotions
Dogs can be very emotional. More times than not, these emotions can be manifested as bad behaviour problems.
Lack of attention is a common emotional problem. When a dog doesn’t receive enough attention, they can act out inappropriately. They may chew on your shoes, scratch the furniture, or dig in the trash. No matter what they do, this is a cry for more loving. Even if the only attention that results from the misbehavior is a swat on the tail, to the dog that’s better than no attention at all.
To solve emotional dog behavioral problems, the owner can simply make an effort to spend more time with his dog. It is important to do this before the dog misbehaves. Punishing her or paying attention to her in any way after the fact only reinforces the misbehavior. The dog thinks, “Gee, chewing on the couch really works!” That’s not the message you want to be making!
Some of the things that you can do to show your dog more attention are:
· Walk her before you go to work
· Play ball with him
· Practice tricks or commands (complete with treats for a job well done)
· Scratch her head while you watch TV
· Take him swimming at the lake
· Take her to the biking trail with you
· Play Frisbee in the park
Reinforcing Good Behavior and Banishing the Bad
Reinforcing good behavior will make it stick, leaving your dog with permanent good manners.
Always give your dogs treats when you come home and the trash isn’t turned over, for instance. Point to the trash and say, “Good boy!” Then give your dog a treat.
On the other hand, if you come home and the trash is turned over, say nothing. Calmly set the can upright, clean the floor, and ignore the mess maker. Yelling will only give your dog attention for the naughty deed, reinforcing the bad habit.
Yelling can also confuse your dog. Dogs understand yelling as barking. Yelling may encourage your dog to think that barking is a great idea. Use a firm, steady voice when talking to your dog. You don’t have to yell to get across the point that you are disappointed in him. He’ll know by the inflection in your voice.
No matter what, be consistent with your dog. If he gets ignored today for knocking over the trash, make sure he gets ignored tomorrow and the day after. Falling back into old discipline patterns will make your dog fall back into bad behavior, as well. Also, make sure that rewards are just as consistent. Good behavior should be rewarded every time so that your dog always knows what to expect.
If your dog knows what to expect, is given plenty of attention, and is disciplined properly, you can solve most dog behavior problems.
Dog Training: Stop your dog pulling on the lead
Nothing takes more fun out of walking your dog than being dragged every inch of the way and having a sore arm to show for it.
So why do they pull us from pillar to post? Well they pull because they want to move forwards to see what is interesting ahead. Ok, so nothing to insightful there, but guess what, the very fact that we move forward when they pull, fully reinforces to the dog the value of pulling. So, whose fault is it that they learn to pull on the lead - you guessed it.
In the past, many people turned to choke chains as a means to discourage lead pulling. Apart from the obvious discomfort to dogs, methods such as this have been superseded with more positive and reward base techniques.
There is only one way to avoid reinforcing pulling on the lead and that is of course …… not moving forward when they do. So when do you move forwards? Only when you have the attention of your dog and the lead is slack.
If your dog is trying to pull and getting nowhere, it will soon stop and look back at you to see why you have stopped. The action of looking back will slacken the lead and the minute your dog catches your eye, say GOOD DOG, give him a treat and start walking forward again. The second the lead goes tight, stop and repeat the process.
I know from practice, this takes perseverance, but it is worth it in the long run. Once your dog successfully walks without pulling on the lead, you can then start working on the heel command to teach your dog to walk along side of you.
http://goodpuppy.blogspot.com/
Nothing takes more fun out of walking your dog than being dragged every inch of the way and having a sore arm to show for it.
So why do they pull us from pillar to post? Well they pull because they want to move forwards to see what is interesting ahead. Ok, so nothing to insightful there, but guess what, the very fact that we move forward when they pull, fully reinforces to the dog the value of pulling. So, whose fault is it that they learn to pull on the lead - you guessed it.
In the past, many people turned to choke chains as a means to discourage lead pulling. Apart from the obvious discomfort to dogs, methods such as this have been superseded with more positive and reward base techniques.
There is only one way to avoid reinforcing pulling on the lead and that is of course …… not moving forward when they do. So when do you move forwards? Only when you have the attention of your dog and the lead is slack.
If your dog is trying to pull and getting nowhere, it will soon stop and look back at you to see why you have stopped. The action of looking back will slacken the lead and the minute your dog catches your eye, say GOOD DOG, give him a treat and start walking forward again. The second the lead goes tight, stop and repeat the process.
I know from practice, this takes perseverance, but it is worth it in the long run. Once your dog successfully walks without pulling on the lead, you can then start working on the heel command to teach your dog to walk along side of you.
http://goodpuppy.blogspot.com/
Wednesday, 13 August 2008
I really enjoyed this guys comments on training your dog so i thought i would share it with you lovely people.
First, let me ask you a few questions (then I will give you my answers):
What is the point of training your dog?
What does it mean to have the “happiest dog on the block”?
What does a truly harmonious relationship with your dog look like?
Take a moment to think about your own answers to those questions, and then keep reading.
What is the point of training your dog? For me, the point of training a dog is not to have a command/control relationship with my dog, and not to teach my dog a repertoire of tricks for my next vaudeville act. In my book, a “trained” dog is a dog whose world naturally revolves around me, who will come when I call no matter WHAT the distraction is (another dog, a car, a moose), who is emotionally healthy in their interaction with other beings (i.e. not aggressive, not hyper, just relaxed), and who otherwise stays out of trouble, while feeling free to have fun and interact with the world.
What does it mean to have the “happiest dog on the block”? In my estimation, the happiest dog on the block has ways to productively deal with the stress that life in “human world” creates in their life. The happiest dog on the block is fully engaged in play when it’s time to play, and is fully committed to resting when it’s time to rest. Otherwise, the happiest dog on the block is friendly to other people, dogs, cats, etc. In general, the happiest dog on the block ends each day feeling like their deepest needs (as a DOG) have been satisfied.
What does a truly harmonious relationship with your dog look like? When you have a truly harmonious relationship with your dog, most of the time that you spend with your dog honors the way that your dog truly sees the world, and you put the world into a context that your dog can understand. Rather than causing stress, your relationship will help your dog release the stress that day-to-day life sends their way. During downtime, your dog is free to rest, while you are free to live your human-centered life on your own…in other words, you each have alone time as well as together time.
In the Natural Dog Training philosophy, our dogs are all hunters at their core. The thing that they find most satisfying in life is to “make prey” - in other words, to satisfy their prey drive. Dogs also see the world through a filter - figuring out what attracts them (prey) and what repels them (predators). The more energized a dog is, the more that dog will be attracted to things that are “prey-like” and repelled by things that are predator-like. Since humans are, in general, more predator-like in a dog’s eyes, that means that our dogs will naturally resist contact with us the more energized that they get.
In devising Natural Dog Training, Kevin Behan has created techniques that specifically tap into a dogs prey drive so that we, as dog owners, become more prey-like in a dog’s eyes. We can tap into their primal circuit, so that the more stimulation the world throws at a dog the more attracted to us they will be. As they will associate us with the resolution of their internalized stress and energized state, whenever they are energized they will look to us to answer the question “What do I do with my energy?”
Additionally, hunting mode is inherently SOCIAL. What that means is that as we work with our dogs’ prey drive, we are plugging into their natural ability to negotiate contact with other beings effectively. A dog whose prey drive is engaged will have a much easier time getting along with other dogs, humans, etc.
Let’s start with obedience: How does Natural Dog Training “elicit” obedience behavior from our dogs? At the core of all obedience behaviors (”heel”, “sit”, “down”, “stay”) are actions that a dog will perform, automatically, while hunting. Imagine a dog running alongside a moose through a field, waiting for the perfect opportunity to leap - that dog is actually “heeling” next to the moose! So goal #1 in Natural Dog Training is NOT to be the alpha dog or the pack leader, the goal, instead, is to ”be the moose” in your dog’s life: the most attractive thing in your dog’s universe. When you implement the techniques of Natural Dog Training, your dog’s behavior will naturally orient around you, and obedience is a product of the dynamic between the two of you. Additionally, in Natural Dog Training our goal is to work with a dog in a relaxed-yet-energized state, which means that not only will they still listen to you the more their environment energizes them, they will be MORE attentive and attracted to you than when they were in a low energy state.
Natural Dog Training techniques also teach your dog how to relax at higher and higher levels of stimulation. Most problem behaviors in dogs have two root causes:
A dog has too much stored stress and no way of venting (resolving) that stress productively.
A dog has trouble relaxing when they’re energized, and their physical tension causes them to have an ‘overload’ response to being energized (aggression, submissive urination, etc.) instead of being in the flow of the situation (which would allow them to handle the energy of the moment without overloading).
The beauty of Natural Dog Training is that we get to focus on the prey instinct (which is Nature’s way of allowing dogs to resolve the stress stored within them) AND relaxation at higher and higher levels of stimulation at the SAME TIME. Instead of trying to shut down our dog’s emotional responses to the world, we learn how to work with their emotional response, channeling it into desired behavior. Ultimately our dogs are able to handle whatever the world throws their way - maintaining their connection with us and channeling their energy into what we want them to do. Of course “what we want them to do” takes their nature, their desire to make prey, into account!
Natural Dog Training allows you and your dog to remain relaxed and connected in the high energy moments when that connection really matters: guests arriving, crossing paths with another dog on a walk, walking without a leash down a path in the woods. Rather than struggling to contain your dog’s natural impulses, you learn how to work with them, and ultimately you will be able to channel them into obedience behavior. If your dog experiences “problem behaviors”, your work with Natural Dog Training will allow you to resolve the stress and tension causing the issue. You’ll have a harmonious relationship with your “well-trained” dog, who also happens to be the happiest dog on the block.
For more details, I suggest the following articles:
For mostly theory and some practice:
How to be the moose in your dog’s life.
How your dog feels the world.
What is dog aggression and how do I stop it?
For mostly practice and some theory:
How to relax your dog.
How to play tug of war with your dog and have the happiest dog on the block.
How to relax and attract your dog using pushing.
How pushing teaches your dog what do do with their energy.
How to introduce your dog to another dog in 10 easy steps.
How to redirect an excited or aggressive dog on a walk.
How to introduce your dog to another person.
Or just click on the sitemap and browse away!Thanks for visiting, and if you have any questions or thoughts, please feel free to leave them in the comments, or e-mail me:neil at naturaldogblog dot com
I’d also love to hear your answers to the 3 questions near the beginning of this article.
www.naturaldogblog.com/blog/category/dog-training/
First, let me ask you a few questions (then I will give you my answers):
What is the point of training your dog?
What does it mean to have the “happiest dog on the block”?
What does a truly harmonious relationship with your dog look like?
Take a moment to think about your own answers to those questions, and then keep reading.
What is the point of training your dog? For me, the point of training a dog is not to have a command/control relationship with my dog, and not to teach my dog a repertoire of tricks for my next vaudeville act. In my book, a “trained” dog is a dog whose world naturally revolves around me, who will come when I call no matter WHAT the distraction is (another dog, a car, a moose), who is emotionally healthy in their interaction with other beings (i.e. not aggressive, not hyper, just relaxed), and who otherwise stays out of trouble, while feeling free to have fun and interact with the world.
What does it mean to have the “happiest dog on the block”? In my estimation, the happiest dog on the block has ways to productively deal with the stress that life in “human world” creates in their life. The happiest dog on the block is fully engaged in play when it’s time to play, and is fully committed to resting when it’s time to rest. Otherwise, the happiest dog on the block is friendly to other people, dogs, cats, etc. In general, the happiest dog on the block ends each day feeling like their deepest needs (as a DOG) have been satisfied.
What does a truly harmonious relationship with your dog look like? When you have a truly harmonious relationship with your dog, most of the time that you spend with your dog honors the way that your dog truly sees the world, and you put the world into a context that your dog can understand. Rather than causing stress, your relationship will help your dog release the stress that day-to-day life sends their way. During downtime, your dog is free to rest, while you are free to live your human-centered life on your own…in other words, you each have alone time as well as together time.
In the Natural Dog Training philosophy, our dogs are all hunters at their core. The thing that they find most satisfying in life is to “make prey” - in other words, to satisfy their prey drive. Dogs also see the world through a filter - figuring out what attracts them (prey) and what repels them (predators). The more energized a dog is, the more that dog will be attracted to things that are “prey-like” and repelled by things that are predator-like. Since humans are, in general, more predator-like in a dog’s eyes, that means that our dogs will naturally resist contact with us the more energized that they get.
In devising Natural Dog Training, Kevin Behan has created techniques that specifically tap into a dogs prey drive so that we, as dog owners, become more prey-like in a dog’s eyes. We can tap into their primal circuit, so that the more stimulation the world throws at a dog the more attracted to us they will be. As they will associate us with the resolution of their internalized stress and energized state, whenever they are energized they will look to us to answer the question “What do I do with my energy?”
Additionally, hunting mode is inherently SOCIAL. What that means is that as we work with our dogs’ prey drive, we are plugging into their natural ability to negotiate contact with other beings effectively. A dog whose prey drive is engaged will have a much easier time getting along with other dogs, humans, etc.
Let’s start with obedience: How does Natural Dog Training “elicit” obedience behavior from our dogs? At the core of all obedience behaviors (”heel”, “sit”, “down”, “stay”) are actions that a dog will perform, automatically, while hunting. Imagine a dog running alongside a moose through a field, waiting for the perfect opportunity to leap - that dog is actually “heeling” next to the moose! So goal #1 in Natural Dog Training is NOT to be the alpha dog or the pack leader, the goal, instead, is to ”be the moose” in your dog’s life: the most attractive thing in your dog’s universe. When you implement the techniques of Natural Dog Training, your dog’s behavior will naturally orient around you, and obedience is a product of the dynamic between the two of you. Additionally, in Natural Dog Training our goal is to work with a dog in a relaxed-yet-energized state, which means that not only will they still listen to you the more their environment energizes them, they will be MORE attentive and attracted to you than when they were in a low energy state.
Natural Dog Training techniques also teach your dog how to relax at higher and higher levels of stimulation. Most problem behaviors in dogs have two root causes:
A dog has too much stored stress and no way of venting (resolving) that stress productively.
A dog has trouble relaxing when they’re energized, and their physical tension causes them to have an ‘overload’ response to being energized (aggression, submissive urination, etc.) instead of being in the flow of the situation (which would allow them to handle the energy of the moment without overloading).
The beauty of Natural Dog Training is that we get to focus on the prey instinct (which is Nature’s way of allowing dogs to resolve the stress stored within them) AND relaxation at higher and higher levels of stimulation at the SAME TIME. Instead of trying to shut down our dog’s emotional responses to the world, we learn how to work with their emotional response, channeling it into desired behavior. Ultimately our dogs are able to handle whatever the world throws their way - maintaining their connection with us and channeling their energy into what we want them to do. Of course “what we want them to do” takes their nature, their desire to make prey, into account!
Natural Dog Training allows you and your dog to remain relaxed and connected in the high energy moments when that connection really matters: guests arriving, crossing paths with another dog on a walk, walking without a leash down a path in the woods. Rather than struggling to contain your dog’s natural impulses, you learn how to work with them, and ultimately you will be able to channel them into obedience behavior. If your dog experiences “problem behaviors”, your work with Natural Dog Training will allow you to resolve the stress and tension causing the issue. You’ll have a harmonious relationship with your “well-trained” dog, who also happens to be the happiest dog on the block.
For more details, I suggest the following articles:
For mostly theory and some practice:
How to be the moose in your dog’s life.
How your dog feels the world.
What is dog aggression and how do I stop it?
For mostly practice and some theory:
How to relax your dog.
How to play tug of war with your dog and have the happiest dog on the block.
How to relax and attract your dog using pushing.
How pushing teaches your dog what do do with their energy.
How to introduce your dog to another dog in 10 easy steps.
How to redirect an excited or aggressive dog on a walk.
How to introduce your dog to another person.
Or just click on the sitemap and browse away!Thanks for visiting, and if you have any questions or thoughts, please feel free to leave them in the comments, or e-mail me:neil at naturaldogblog dot com
I’d also love to hear your answers to the 3 questions near the beginning of this article.
www.naturaldogblog.com/blog/category/dog-training/
Symptoms of Dog Poisoning and Their Causes
Being the curious creatures that they are, dogs can easily get into situations where they can be poisoned. Houseplants, household items, food, and even toads can be a poison threat. It is important to know what the symptoms of dog poisoning are so that you can get help immediately.
Here are the symptoms of dog poisoning and their causes so that you can be on alert for the safety of your dog.
General Symptoms
The general symptoms of dog poisoning can be wide and varied depending on the substance the dog gets into. If your dog has been poisoned you will usually be able to see symptoms within the next three days. How much poison your dog was exposed to and if it was ingested or touched can determine how long it will take to see symptoms and how severe the symptoms are.
Here are some things to look for:
· Hallucinations (barking at things that aren’t there, jumping at sounds and bright lights)
· Mouth irritation
· Diarrhea
· Depression (lying around, lack of interest in people, food, or toys)
· Weakness and/or lethargy
· Skin rash
· Uncoordinated gait and/or staggering
· Seizures and/or muscle tremor and rigidity
· Coma
· Vomiting
· Lack of appetite
· Bleeding disorders (blood in vomit and/or diarrhea)
· Excessive drooling
· Breathing difficulty
· Heart failure (no pulse)
· Cough with bloody phlegm
Toxic Plants
There are many houseplants that can be poisonous to dogs. They will give a dog symptoms of dog poisoning when touched to the body or mouth, or when eaten.
Touching certain plants can cause skin problems. These symptoms usually show up as swelling, dermatitis, or a rash on the skin or mouth. Plants that can cause this are Poinsettia, Chrysanthemum, Weeping fig, Creeping fig, Pot mum, and the Spider mum.Some plants, such as the Boston ivy, Philodendron, Caladium, Pathos, and Arrowhead Vine can cause irritation to the nose and can cause the mouth to swell. The tongue and lips may also become painful.
Other toxic plants such as Elephant Ears, Asparagus Fern, Amaryllis, Azalea, Ivy, and the Bird of Paradise can cause abdominal pain, vomiting, and cramps. These may progress to tremors, kidney problems and/or heart and respiratory problems.
If you suspect plant poisoning, call Poison Control or your vet for instructions on how to help your dog.
Household Items
Many household items can be toxic to dogs, including paint thinner, cleansers, radiator fluid, and more. These can cause a wide variety of symptoms.
If your dog has eaten a household item, he may vomit or get diarrhea, become dizzy, have breathing difficulty, stagger, drool more than normal, or be overly tired.
Touching a household item such as bleach, drain openers, laundry and dishwashing detergents, toilet cleaners, and oven cleaners can cause severe burns to your dog’s eyes, mouth, nose, and skin.
Find the item your dog ingested or touched, read the label for poisoning instructions, and call Poison Control for help right away.FoodsSurprisingly, many foods that are healthy for humans can be toxic to dogs.
For example, the leaves, fruit, bark and seeds of an avocado contain Persin, which can be toxic to dogs.
Another good example is salmon poisoning, which can be fatal in dogs. This is caused by the dog eating raw salmon that is infected with a parasite called Neorickettsia helminthoeca. The symptoms of this dog poisoning include fever, vomiting, lack of appetite, weakness, bloody diarrhea, swollen lymph nodes, and dehydration. Caffeine can be poisonous to dogs and can cause tremors, seizures, and heart arrhythmia. Chocolate, which contains caffeine, can cause poisoning symptoms of diarrhea and vomiting and, in severe cases, can cause vomiting and heart arrhythmias.
No matter what the poison, make sure that you seek professional help if you believe that your dog has been poisoned.
Doggyreview.com
Being the curious creatures that they are, dogs can easily get into situations where they can be poisoned. Houseplants, household items, food, and even toads can be a poison threat. It is important to know what the symptoms of dog poisoning are so that you can get help immediately.
Here are the symptoms of dog poisoning and their causes so that you can be on alert for the safety of your dog.
General Symptoms
The general symptoms of dog poisoning can be wide and varied depending on the substance the dog gets into. If your dog has been poisoned you will usually be able to see symptoms within the next three days. How much poison your dog was exposed to and if it was ingested or touched can determine how long it will take to see symptoms and how severe the symptoms are.
Here are some things to look for:
· Hallucinations (barking at things that aren’t there, jumping at sounds and bright lights)
· Mouth irritation
· Diarrhea
· Depression (lying around, lack of interest in people, food, or toys)
· Weakness and/or lethargy
· Skin rash
· Uncoordinated gait and/or staggering
· Seizures and/or muscle tremor and rigidity
· Coma
· Vomiting
· Lack of appetite
· Bleeding disorders (blood in vomit and/or diarrhea)
· Excessive drooling
· Breathing difficulty
· Heart failure (no pulse)
· Cough with bloody phlegm
Toxic Plants
There are many houseplants that can be poisonous to dogs. They will give a dog symptoms of dog poisoning when touched to the body or mouth, or when eaten.
Touching certain plants can cause skin problems. These symptoms usually show up as swelling, dermatitis, or a rash on the skin or mouth. Plants that can cause this are Poinsettia, Chrysanthemum, Weeping fig, Creeping fig, Pot mum, and the Spider mum.Some plants, such as the Boston ivy, Philodendron, Caladium, Pathos, and Arrowhead Vine can cause irritation to the nose and can cause the mouth to swell. The tongue and lips may also become painful.
Other toxic plants such as Elephant Ears, Asparagus Fern, Amaryllis, Azalea, Ivy, and the Bird of Paradise can cause abdominal pain, vomiting, and cramps. These may progress to tremors, kidney problems and/or heart and respiratory problems.
If you suspect plant poisoning, call Poison Control or your vet for instructions on how to help your dog.
Household Items
Many household items can be toxic to dogs, including paint thinner, cleansers, radiator fluid, and more. These can cause a wide variety of symptoms.
If your dog has eaten a household item, he may vomit or get diarrhea, become dizzy, have breathing difficulty, stagger, drool more than normal, or be overly tired.
Touching a household item such as bleach, drain openers, laundry and dishwashing detergents, toilet cleaners, and oven cleaners can cause severe burns to your dog’s eyes, mouth, nose, and skin.
Find the item your dog ingested or touched, read the label for poisoning instructions, and call Poison Control for help right away.FoodsSurprisingly, many foods that are healthy for humans can be toxic to dogs.
For example, the leaves, fruit, bark and seeds of an avocado contain Persin, which can be toxic to dogs.
Another good example is salmon poisoning, which can be fatal in dogs. This is caused by the dog eating raw salmon that is infected with a parasite called Neorickettsia helminthoeca. The symptoms of this dog poisoning include fever, vomiting, lack of appetite, weakness, bloody diarrhea, swollen lymph nodes, and dehydration. Caffeine can be poisonous to dogs and can cause tremors, seizures, and heart arrhythmia. Chocolate, which contains caffeine, can cause poisoning symptoms of diarrhea and vomiting and, in severe cases, can cause vomiting and heart arrhythmias.
No matter what the poison, make sure that you seek professional help if you believe that your dog has been poisoned.
Doggyreview.com
How to Choose the Right Dog Names
Choosing the right dog name can be an art. You can go with funny names, ironic names, meaningful names, or powerful names, but there are some important things to remember. Your dog’s names has a lot of bearing on how you train your dog and how your breeding papers look.
These tips will help you come up with the right dog name for your pet.
Breeding PapersSince breeding papers are so important to pureblood dogs, especially if you will be breeding from your dog, the name you give your it is of upmost importance.
First, the name must be 100% original. No other papered dog can have the name. This fact can be intimidating until you remember that you can make your dog’s breeding name as long as you like!
Many people will add to the length of the name by taking part of the name from the dog’s parents. This will insure that your dog’s breeding line is identified in their name. For example, if the stud’s name is Captain Jack Sparrow, the pup may be called Captain Jack’s Black Pearl on its breeding papers. This is an original name and identifies the breeding line. The dog’s nickname could be Pearl or Blacky.
Short and Sweet
Now that you’ve considered your breeding paper name, now consider the short version. You want a very short name that will be easy to say over and over while you are training your dog. Dogs also do best with names that are one or two syllables.
For example, the name Slobber Monkey may sound cute, but it would be hard to repeat over and over again. You could always go with Monkey, Monk, or Slob for short, but make sure that you are consistent with whichever variation you choose. Dogs don’t understand when their names are being shortened and that can lead to frustration for the both of you. Imagine someone calling you a name you were not familiar with. Would you come?
Remember that the less syllables, the better. Snickerdoodle is a cute name, but it has way too many syllables. How about just Snickers or Doodle instead? They are a lot easier to say and the dog will be able to understand them much better.
Fit the Dog
Naming your dog the day you get it may seem natural, but it may be a better idea to wait a while to see what kind of personality your dog develops so that you can name it to match. This shouldn’t take more than a week, and it really helps.
For example, if you have a dog that loves to lay around and pout you may want to call it something like Droopy. If you have a happy, energetic dog, a name like Perky may be better. But, imagine that you named your dog right away and you have a dog that acts like a Perky, but you named it Droopy. Opps!
Fit the Look
You should consider the look and breed of the dog, as well as the personality.
The name Perky may sound strange on a bulldog. Then again, the name Droopy may sound strange on a Chihuahua. However, opposites can make for funny and ironic name choices. For example, a huge Mastiff may be cute with the name Tiny. The Chihuahua may be funny with the name of Gigantor.
Make sure to look at the color and markings on your dog, as well. For example, dogs with a different color around their feet could be named Socks. A dog with spots could be names Polka Dots. A dog that is a dark brown color could be named Mocha or Chocolate.
No matter what name you choose, make sure that it feels right for your dog. You’ll be saying this name well into the next decade, so you want to make sure that you love it.
Doggyreview.com
Choosing the right dog name can be an art. You can go with funny names, ironic names, meaningful names, or powerful names, but there are some important things to remember. Your dog’s names has a lot of bearing on how you train your dog and how your breeding papers look.
These tips will help you come up with the right dog name for your pet.
Breeding PapersSince breeding papers are so important to pureblood dogs, especially if you will be breeding from your dog, the name you give your it is of upmost importance.
First, the name must be 100% original. No other papered dog can have the name. This fact can be intimidating until you remember that you can make your dog’s breeding name as long as you like!
Many people will add to the length of the name by taking part of the name from the dog’s parents. This will insure that your dog’s breeding line is identified in their name. For example, if the stud’s name is Captain Jack Sparrow, the pup may be called Captain Jack’s Black Pearl on its breeding papers. This is an original name and identifies the breeding line. The dog’s nickname could be Pearl or Blacky.
Short and Sweet
Now that you’ve considered your breeding paper name, now consider the short version. You want a very short name that will be easy to say over and over while you are training your dog. Dogs also do best with names that are one or two syllables.
For example, the name Slobber Monkey may sound cute, but it would be hard to repeat over and over again. You could always go with Monkey, Monk, or Slob for short, but make sure that you are consistent with whichever variation you choose. Dogs don’t understand when their names are being shortened and that can lead to frustration for the both of you. Imagine someone calling you a name you were not familiar with. Would you come?
Remember that the less syllables, the better. Snickerdoodle is a cute name, but it has way too many syllables. How about just Snickers or Doodle instead? They are a lot easier to say and the dog will be able to understand them much better.
Fit the Dog
Naming your dog the day you get it may seem natural, but it may be a better idea to wait a while to see what kind of personality your dog develops so that you can name it to match. This shouldn’t take more than a week, and it really helps.
For example, if you have a dog that loves to lay around and pout you may want to call it something like Droopy. If you have a happy, energetic dog, a name like Perky may be better. But, imagine that you named your dog right away and you have a dog that acts like a Perky, but you named it Droopy. Opps!
Fit the Look
You should consider the look and breed of the dog, as well as the personality.
The name Perky may sound strange on a bulldog. Then again, the name Droopy may sound strange on a Chihuahua. However, opposites can make for funny and ironic name choices. For example, a huge Mastiff may be cute with the name Tiny. The Chihuahua may be funny with the name of Gigantor.
Make sure to look at the color and markings on your dog, as well. For example, dogs with a different color around their feet could be named Socks. A dog with spots could be names Polka Dots. A dog that is a dark brown color could be named Mocha or Chocolate.
No matter what name you choose, make sure that it feels right for your dog. You’ll be saying this name well into the next decade, so you want to make sure that you love it.
Doggyreview.com
Training your puppy to sit
Training Your Puppy To Sit
Posted on August 9th, 2008 by Dog Lover
A badly trained dog is an annoyance and can even be a threat to himself and others. A correctly trained dog, on the other had, is a fantastic and enjoyable buddy. In addition to assisting you to bond, it can even shield your pet from being harmed if he pays attention and will come when called.
When teaching always keep in mind that dogs react best to encouraging. Backing, shouting at your dog and beating him will not get done the job, in its place use rewards such as goodies and your appreciation. This will make the job much more enjoyable for both of you!
There is a general ‘process’ to teaching, no matter what you want the dog to do. They solution is to get the dog to carry out the act and at that precise instant give the instruction for the act, then commend the dog and reward him with a goody. After a while, he will get the message and connect the act with the instruction.
Given below some ways you can make use of to teach your dog with the most fundamental instruction ‘Sit’.
1. The first thing you have to do is to get your puppy or dog to connect the action of sitting with the instruction. To do this, merely spend time with your dog and when he sits give the ’sit’ instruction.
2. Going down to your dog’s height will let you to give his reward (goodies) faster so take hold of a handful of bite sized goodies and got down on the floor.
3. Take the goody up above the dog’s head. He will smell the food and go behind it with his nose. This act will compel him to sit - or backup, but apparently we are hopeful for the sitting act.
4. The solution to the teaching is to give the reward at the precise instant the dog sits, but you have got to also give the instruction at that instant as well so that he links instruction with act. Hence when your dog sits, you should say ’sit’ following it up by right away giving him the goody.
5. Shower praise on your dog - demonstrate delight in your voice; this will actually make him act in response.
6. Go over three to five times at each sitting but no more than that. Training should be enjoyable and not an uninteresting odd job, so do not go over the top with it in one sitting. You might have more than a few sittings all through the day.
When you use up the time to teach your dog, you get much more than just a dog that does a number of antics. He is keen to do things with you. He grasps to pay attention when you say his name. He gets accustomed to being with you and doing things on your command. Through fine training your stance as a person in charge is made stronger. You ought to arrange to use up a couple of minutes every day on working his ‘tricks’. This sort of recurring reinforcement will help him to keep in mind and in addition generate the bond between you and him.
Doggyreview.com
Training Your Puppy To Sit
Posted on August 9th, 2008 by Dog Lover
A badly trained dog is an annoyance and can even be a threat to himself and others. A correctly trained dog, on the other had, is a fantastic and enjoyable buddy. In addition to assisting you to bond, it can even shield your pet from being harmed if he pays attention and will come when called.
When teaching always keep in mind that dogs react best to encouraging. Backing, shouting at your dog and beating him will not get done the job, in its place use rewards such as goodies and your appreciation. This will make the job much more enjoyable for both of you!
There is a general ‘process’ to teaching, no matter what you want the dog to do. They solution is to get the dog to carry out the act and at that precise instant give the instruction for the act, then commend the dog and reward him with a goody. After a while, he will get the message and connect the act with the instruction.
Given below some ways you can make use of to teach your dog with the most fundamental instruction ‘Sit’.
1. The first thing you have to do is to get your puppy or dog to connect the action of sitting with the instruction. To do this, merely spend time with your dog and when he sits give the ’sit’ instruction.
2. Going down to your dog’s height will let you to give his reward (goodies) faster so take hold of a handful of bite sized goodies and got down on the floor.
3. Take the goody up above the dog’s head. He will smell the food and go behind it with his nose. This act will compel him to sit - or backup, but apparently we are hopeful for the sitting act.
4. The solution to the teaching is to give the reward at the precise instant the dog sits, but you have got to also give the instruction at that instant as well so that he links instruction with act. Hence when your dog sits, you should say ’sit’ following it up by right away giving him the goody.
5. Shower praise on your dog - demonstrate delight in your voice; this will actually make him act in response.
6. Go over three to five times at each sitting but no more than that. Training should be enjoyable and not an uninteresting odd job, so do not go over the top with it in one sitting. You might have more than a few sittings all through the day.
When you use up the time to teach your dog, you get much more than just a dog that does a number of antics. He is keen to do things with you. He grasps to pay attention when you say his name. He gets accustomed to being with you and doing things on your command. Through fine training your stance as a person in charge is made stronger. You ought to arrange to use up a couple of minutes every day on working his ‘tricks’. This sort of recurring reinforcement will help him to keep in mind and in addition generate the bond between you and him.
Doggyreview.com
Dog worm symptoms
Dog Worm Symptoms
Worms are parasites that live in your dog’s body and feed off of them. The dog worm symptoms can be mild to severe. The disease should be treated quickly to save the dog and the dog’s quality of life. Here is an overview of the symptoms of dog worms.
General Dog Worm Symptoms
No matter what the worm type, there are some tried and true symptoms that a dog may exhibit when plagued with the parasites.
Some of the exterior symptoms are pale lips and gums, a hot, dry nose, stinky breath, watery eyes, a hacking cough, coat loss, and red, dry, irritated skin.
Infected dogs will have strange appetites. Some will eat dirt and trash or be overly hungry one moment, then not hungry at all.
They usually have round, stretched bellies that are constantly rumbling. They will also have bowel problems such as strange looking diarrhea.
The Condition in Puppies
Puppies with dog worm symptoms are usually easy to spot. They have large, bloated bellies, but are extremely thin in other areas. They sleep most of the time, with very little energy.
Wormy puppies grow very slowly and tend to have a hard time using their back legs. If the worms are not treated, the puppy may suffer from convulsions and die.
Heartworms
Heartworm disease is a specific type of worm that attack the heart. It is caused by a parasite that is transmitted to the dog by mosquitoes. It affects the ventricles of the heart and can eventually kill the dog. The dog worm symptoms are fainting after exercise, shortness of breath, jaundice, cough, swelling of the abdomen, tiring easily, bloody stool, appetite, weight loss and loss of and nervousness.
Ringworm
Ringworm is another specific type of worm that affects humans and dogs alike. The dog worm symptoms of this parasite are hair loss and pink or red raised patches of skin. The ring of skin is the worm under the surface of the skin. These rings are usually by the ears, head, tail, and feet of the dog. This parasite is generally not harmful, but can cause your pet a lot of discomfort.
Most worm infections can be treated by a vet without much problem. The trick is to catch the dog worm symptoms early and follow through with treatment to return the dog to full health.
Doggyreview.com
Dog Worm Symptoms
Worms are parasites that live in your dog’s body and feed off of them. The dog worm symptoms can be mild to severe. The disease should be treated quickly to save the dog and the dog’s quality of life. Here is an overview of the symptoms of dog worms.
General Dog Worm Symptoms
No matter what the worm type, there are some tried and true symptoms that a dog may exhibit when plagued with the parasites.
Some of the exterior symptoms are pale lips and gums, a hot, dry nose, stinky breath, watery eyes, a hacking cough, coat loss, and red, dry, irritated skin.
Infected dogs will have strange appetites. Some will eat dirt and trash or be overly hungry one moment, then not hungry at all.
They usually have round, stretched bellies that are constantly rumbling. They will also have bowel problems such as strange looking diarrhea.
The Condition in Puppies
Puppies with dog worm symptoms are usually easy to spot. They have large, bloated bellies, but are extremely thin in other areas. They sleep most of the time, with very little energy.
Wormy puppies grow very slowly and tend to have a hard time using their back legs. If the worms are not treated, the puppy may suffer from convulsions and die.
Heartworms
Heartworm disease is a specific type of worm that attack the heart. It is caused by a parasite that is transmitted to the dog by mosquitoes. It affects the ventricles of the heart and can eventually kill the dog. The dog worm symptoms are fainting after exercise, shortness of breath, jaundice, cough, swelling of the abdomen, tiring easily, bloody stool, appetite, weight loss and loss of and nervousness.
Ringworm
Ringworm is another specific type of worm that affects humans and dogs alike. The dog worm symptoms of this parasite are hair loss and pink or red raised patches of skin. The ring of skin is the worm under the surface of the skin. These rings are usually by the ears, head, tail, and feet of the dog. This parasite is generally not harmful, but can cause your pet a lot of discomfort.
Most worm infections can be treated by a vet without much problem. The trick is to catch the dog worm symptoms early and follow through with treatment to return the dog to full health.
Doggyreview.com
Dog training tips
Dog training will transform the dog’s mannerisms, from a dog that will not do as he is told by you to a dog that will pay attention to your orders, from a dog that is annoying the neighbors into a calm one, from a dog that is at all times scampering from you into a dog that will remain at a halt at your order. Just like in any other training scheme, there are some methods to be followed.
The dog has got to be familiar with his name, so he can act in response to the master’s instructions. When he is familiar with his own name, you can begin teaching with the check lead and instruct “here” or “come”. You can begin all this in the house, but initially, he has to be able to make out his own name. If you would like the puppy to pay attention just to you, then do not permit him to play with other people. If you will allow him to play too much, he will begin to snarl and bark every time you take his playthings away.
One more essential feature of dog training is that you have to teach your pet, so no one will get harmed when you are out with him and people are all about him. By making use of the dog training instructions correctly, you do not have to be anxious that he will bite off someone or he will scamper off. Even if you have trained your dog to be compliant and pay heed you, you should admire him as well since after all, you selected him, he could not select you, and if you will not take care of him properly, he will in all probability run away, or he will be miserable. The fundamental dog training instructions that a dog should act in response to are: fetch, stay close, here, sit and come.
- Begin teaching the dog whilst he is still a puppy - this makes sure of much better achievement rates even for starting out dog trainers.
- Put up some information on dog training and only then acquire a new puppy.
- Free dog obedience training programs ought to be modified to the precise necessities of your dog breed. Please see our collection of precise dog breed training techniques in order to get more understanding on this subject.
- Make certain that the puppy is in high spirits and has an adequate amount of energy to try out training.
- Be inventive, by no means let the puppy get fed up and coach the dog where the limits are set.
http://www.dogownerclub.com/
Dog training will transform the dog’s mannerisms, from a dog that will not do as he is told by you to a dog that will pay attention to your orders, from a dog that is annoying the neighbors into a calm one, from a dog that is at all times scampering from you into a dog that will remain at a halt at your order. Just like in any other training scheme, there are some methods to be followed.
The dog has got to be familiar with his name, so he can act in response to the master’s instructions. When he is familiar with his own name, you can begin teaching with the check lead and instruct “here” or “come”. You can begin all this in the house, but initially, he has to be able to make out his own name. If you would like the puppy to pay attention just to you, then do not permit him to play with other people. If you will allow him to play too much, he will begin to snarl and bark every time you take his playthings away.
One more essential feature of dog training is that you have to teach your pet, so no one will get harmed when you are out with him and people are all about him. By making use of the dog training instructions correctly, you do not have to be anxious that he will bite off someone or he will scamper off. Even if you have trained your dog to be compliant and pay heed you, you should admire him as well since after all, you selected him, he could not select you, and if you will not take care of him properly, he will in all probability run away, or he will be miserable. The fundamental dog training instructions that a dog should act in response to are: fetch, stay close, here, sit and come.
- Begin teaching the dog whilst he is still a puppy - this makes sure of much better achievement rates even for starting out dog trainers.
- Put up some information on dog training and only then acquire a new puppy.
- Free dog obedience training programs ought to be modified to the precise necessities of your dog breed. Please see our collection of precise dog breed training techniques in order to get more understanding on this subject.
- Make certain that the puppy is in high spirits and has an adequate amount of energy to try out training.
- Be inventive, by no means let the puppy get fed up and coach the dog where the limits are set.
http://www.dogownerclub.com/
Tuesday, 12 August 2008
Dog Labor Symptoms
It is important to know the symptoms of a dog going into labor so that you are ready to help your dog through the new arrival. This way you are prepared for emergencies and any problems that may occur.
Around 54-72 days of pregnancy, you should start looking for these common dog labor symptoms.
Early Warning
24-48 hours before the puppies are born, your dog will have some early warning labor symptoms that you can watch for.
First, your dog will start searching for a place to have her babies. This is called nesting. She will search her home for a quite place that is relatively secluded where she feels safe.
Then, she’ll start a search for items to make her nest comfy and warm. Don’t be surprised if you find her dragging blankets, papers, couch cushions, stuffed animals, and other comfy objects to the area to make herself a nest.
If her nest building is ruining objects in your home, you can build your dog a whelping box, yourself. You can do this by dragging a large cardboard box to the area your dog chose and filling it with rags, old pillows, towels, and blankets that you no longer need. This way your nice things stay nice and your dog will still get what she needs to be comfortable. Don’t be surprised if she pull things out she doesn’t like and rearranges the things she does. Don’t both putting the box back the way you had it, she’ll just rearrange it again.
Also, put together a basket of supplies you will need for the birth. You will need sharp scissors to cut the cords, towels, string for tying off cords, and a good disinfectant (call your vet for recommendations). You may also want to have a bucket of water handy, just in case you need to wash the puppies.
Labor’s Coming
About a week from your dog’s due date, take her temperature to determine her normal temperature. This should be done by using a mercury or digital thermometer in the rectum. Have your vet show you how to take a recital temperature if you are unsure of how to take it.
A normal dog’s temperature ranges from 100 to 102.5F. Right before she gives birth, within 24 hours, your dog’s temperature will drop from over 100 degrees to 97-99 degrees. A cooler temperature is a sure sign that you should keep a close eye on your dog because the puppies will be born in 10 to 24 hours.
Around this time your dog will start having cervix dilatation and uterine contractions. More than likely, you won’t be able to tell if this is happening, at this stage. The only signs you will likely see is that your dog is very uncomfortable. She may not want to eat, seem sick, or she may be irritable. By this time, the labor is very close, so she may just want to stay in her nesting area, which you should encourage.
Around the time of birth, your dog may start grooming her genital area and she may start leaking an amber colored discharge.
The finial sign of dog labor symptoms is the dog is bearing down to push the puppies out. You will notice her straining and she may be whimpering, especially if this is her first litter. Look for a gooey bulge coming from the birth canal. This will be the amniotic sac.
The first puppy is usually popped out after 10 to 20 minutes of straining. This may be faster if this isn’t your dog’s first litter. The puppies will probably be born an hour apart.
If she has started to push, it is time to get ready to welcome the new puppies and help the mom (if she needs it) clean up her new family.
Doggyreview.com
It is important to know the symptoms of a dog going into labor so that you are ready to help your dog through the new arrival. This way you are prepared for emergencies and any problems that may occur.
Around 54-72 days of pregnancy, you should start looking for these common dog labor symptoms.
Early Warning
24-48 hours before the puppies are born, your dog will have some early warning labor symptoms that you can watch for.
First, your dog will start searching for a place to have her babies. This is called nesting. She will search her home for a quite place that is relatively secluded where she feels safe.
Then, she’ll start a search for items to make her nest comfy and warm. Don’t be surprised if you find her dragging blankets, papers, couch cushions, stuffed animals, and other comfy objects to the area to make herself a nest.
If her nest building is ruining objects in your home, you can build your dog a whelping box, yourself. You can do this by dragging a large cardboard box to the area your dog chose and filling it with rags, old pillows, towels, and blankets that you no longer need. This way your nice things stay nice and your dog will still get what she needs to be comfortable. Don’t be surprised if she pull things out she doesn’t like and rearranges the things she does. Don’t both putting the box back the way you had it, she’ll just rearrange it again.
Also, put together a basket of supplies you will need for the birth. You will need sharp scissors to cut the cords, towels, string for tying off cords, and a good disinfectant (call your vet for recommendations). You may also want to have a bucket of water handy, just in case you need to wash the puppies.
Labor’s Coming
About a week from your dog’s due date, take her temperature to determine her normal temperature. This should be done by using a mercury or digital thermometer in the rectum. Have your vet show you how to take a recital temperature if you are unsure of how to take it.
A normal dog’s temperature ranges from 100 to 102.5F. Right before she gives birth, within 24 hours, your dog’s temperature will drop from over 100 degrees to 97-99 degrees. A cooler temperature is a sure sign that you should keep a close eye on your dog because the puppies will be born in 10 to 24 hours.
Around this time your dog will start having cervix dilatation and uterine contractions. More than likely, you won’t be able to tell if this is happening, at this stage. The only signs you will likely see is that your dog is very uncomfortable. She may not want to eat, seem sick, or she may be irritable. By this time, the labor is very close, so she may just want to stay in her nesting area, which you should encourage.
Around the time of birth, your dog may start grooming her genital area and she may start leaking an amber colored discharge.
The finial sign of dog labor symptoms is the dog is bearing down to push the puppies out. You will notice her straining and she may be whimpering, especially if this is her first litter. Look for a gooey bulge coming from the birth canal. This will be the amniotic sac.
The first puppy is usually popped out after 10 to 20 minutes of straining. This may be faster if this isn’t your dog’s first litter. The puppies will probably be born an hour apart.
If she has started to push, it is time to get ready to welcome the new puppies and help the mom (if she needs it) clean up her new family.
Doggyreview.com
Dog barking problems
Dog Barking Problems and How to Fix Them
Dog barking problems can be an embarrassment, a hassle, and a noise violation in some areas. Solving, or at least controlling, these problems is difficult but can be managed with a little effort and proper planning.
Environment
Many dogs bark because they are wary of their environment. Some dogs bark when they hear a strange noise. Others bark because they see strange people. These are environmental factors that can be controlled to keep your dog’s barking problems under control.
For example, if your dog seems to bark every time he sees new people, try to limit the amount of time he is around new people. Basically, remove him from the situation. When people come to your house, put your pet in a back room. Close the blinds at night so your dog can’t see people passing by your home. Walk your dog when there are few people out and about, like early in the morning.
These are simple steps that can be done without reprimanding your dog for an impulse that is second nature.
Emotions
Another thing that can make dogs bark is emotions. Dogs are a lot like children. They crave attention, and when they don’t receive it they act out. You may see this as misbehaving, but it is really just a cry for comfort.
Some of the things that can cause a dog to be emotional are:
· A new environment
· Her owner spending more time away from home
· Separation anxiety
· The need to play or exercise
· New people in the family (like a new baby)
To solve emotional dog barking problems, the owner needs to make an effort to spend more time with his dog before the dog acts up. Think of it as nipping the barking in the bud. Waiting to lavish attention on your dog after she barks may be seen as a reward for bad behavior, which will reinforce the barking habit.
Human Behavior
An owner’s behavior can solidify a dog’s barking problem and make it worse.
For instance, by yelling at the dog, he may think that your are joining him. Of course, if you are barking, too, why should he stop? Now you’re his partner-in-crime and strengthening the bad habit.
Using a calm but stern voice is a much wiser way of controlling your dog’s barking. Firmly say, “Come,” and then, “Sit.” If your dog stops barking and obeys, make sure to give her lots of love. Show her that she is a good dog when she listens to you.
Do not reward your dog by showing her attention when she is barking inappropriately. Leave the room or ignore her until she is quite, then make sure to give her plenty of attention while she is quiet.
This goes for puppies, as well. Don’t reward a puppy when it whines at night by coming to it. Before you go to bed, make sure the puppy is safe and secure, ideally in a crate by your bed. Then, ignore the whimpers. This will teach your dog early on that it should be quiet at night and other behavior will not get attention. This habit will last into adulthood and will give you less bad habits to break.
Remember, barking is a way for your dog to communicate with you. He can signal danger, the need to go potty, and humor with a bark. You’re goal is not to silence all barks, just the inappropriate ones. A little love and understanding can go a long way in fixing a dog’s barking problem.
doggreview.com
Dog Barking Problems and How to Fix Them
Dog barking problems can be an embarrassment, a hassle, and a noise violation in some areas. Solving, or at least controlling, these problems is difficult but can be managed with a little effort and proper planning.
Environment
Many dogs bark because they are wary of their environment. Some dogs bark when they hear a strange noise. Others bark because they see strange people. These are environmental factors that can be controlled to keep your dog’s barking problems under control.
For example, if your dog seems to bark every time he sees new people, try to limit the amount of time he is around new people. Basically, remove him from the situation. When people come to your house, put your pet in a back room. Close the blinds at night so your dog can’t see people passing by your home. Walk your dog when there are few people out and about, like early in the morning.
These are simple steps that can be done without reprimanding your dog for an impulse that is second nature.
Emotions
Another thing that can make dogs bark is emotions. Dogs are a lot like children. They crave attention, and when they don’t receive it they act out. You may see this as misbehaving, but it is really just a cry for comfort.
Some of the things that can cause a dog to be emotional are:
· A new environment
· Her owner spending more time away from home
· Separation anxiety
· The need to play or exercise
· New people in the family (like a new baby)
To solve emotional dog barking problems, the owner needs to make an effort to spend more time with his dog before the dog acts up. Think of it as nipping the barking in the bud. Waiting to lavish attention on your dog after she barks may be seen as a reward for bad behavior, which will reinforce the barking habit.
Human Behavior
An owner’s behavior can solidify a dog’s barking problem and make it worse.
For instance, by yelling at the dog, he may think that your are joining him. Of course, if you are barking, too, why should he stop? Now you’re his partner-in-crime and strengthening the bad habit.
Using a calm but stern voice is a much wiser way of controlling your dog’s barking. Firmly say, “Come,” and then, “Sit.” If your dog stops barking and obeys, make sure to give her lots of love. Show her that she is a good dog when she listens to you.
Do not reward your dog by showing her attention when she is barking inappropriately. Leave the room or ignore her until she is quite, then make sure to give her plenty of attention while she is quiet.
This goes for puppies, as well. Don’t reward a puppy when it whines at night by coming to it. Before you go to bed, make sure the puppy is safe and secure, ideally in a crate by your bed. Then, ignore the whimpers. This will teach your dog early on that it should be quiet at night and other behavior will not get attention. This habit will last into adulthood and will give you less bad habits to break.
Remember, barking is a way for your dog to communicate with you. He can signal danger, the need to go potty, and humor with a bark. You’re goal is not to silence all barks, just the inappropriate ones. A little love and understanding can go a long way in fixing a dog’s barking problem.
doggreview.com
"Dog Training: Boundary and Perimeter Training (Don't let your dog run away)"
I really enjoyed this guys comments on dog training thought i would it all with you nice people
The doorbell rings. Your dog:(a) Follows behind you, patiently waiting as you open the door;or(b) Bolts for the door in a mad rush to beat you there, forcing you to useyour legs as a barricade.If (b) describes the typical scenario in your home, you may want to consider Boundary and Perimeter Training. This important tool can help ensure your dog's safety, and keep both of you secure in knowing who's in control.What you'll need: Basic obedience training, especially obeying the commands "stay" and "heel," is a pre-requisite.When you are ready to begin boundary training, you should:1.-Choose a single vocabulary word (such as "halt," "stop," "door," etc.) that will be applied to this specific exercise.2.-Get a long, light line that can be attached to the dog's collar during the initial training.3.-Commit to consistency: every time you open a door, make sure the dog is given a command and made to obey it. This means cooperation from the entire household; if someone lets her escape, all your work will be undone.Indoor Boundary Training:Start your training with an interior doorway where the dog won't be in danger if she outmaneuvers you.Go to the door, but before you open it, take the dog by the collar, move her back from the doorway, look her straight in the eye and say, "HALT!" in a commanding voice. Using your hand as a barrier in front of her face while using the "halt" command reinforces the message.Eventually, open the door a bit, but not wide enough for her to slip through. If she tries to get out, quickly shut the door, grab her collar, push her back and correct her with a firm "NO!" Give her the "HALT!" command and hand motion again.Repeat this exercise several times a day using all the doors in your house. Make sure to praise her when she actually does stay!Outdoor Boundary TrainingBefore you begin, assess your neighborhood: its residents and its risks.Walk the dog on a leash around the perimeter of your property several times a day. Do not let the dog roam freely outside.Each time she begins to wander over your property line, firmly say, "NO," give a little jerk on the leash and walk her back inside the line.Continue this process several times a day.Be ready with plenty of positive reinforcements (treats, pats, verbal praise) to reward the dog for coming when called or staying when told.
http://goodpuppy.blogspot.com/
The doorbell rings. Your dog:(a) Follows behind you, patiently waiting as you open the door;or(b) Bolts for the door in a mad rush to beat you there, forcing you to useyour legs as a barricade.If (b) describes the typical scenario in your home, you may want to consider Boundary and Perimeter Training. This important tool can help ensure your dog's safety, and keep both of you secure in knowing who's in control.What you'll need: Basic obedience training, especially obeying the commands "stay" and "heel," is a pre-requisite.When you are ready to begin boundary training, you should:1.-Choose a single vocabulary word (such as "halt," "stop," "door," etc.) that will be applied to this specific exercise.2.-Get a long, light line that can be attached to the dog's collar during the initial training.3.-Commit to consistency: every time you open a door, make sure the dog is given a command and made to obey it. This means cooperation from the entire household; if someone lets her escape, all your work will be undone.Indoor Boundary Training:Start your training with an interior doorway where the dog won't be in danger if she outmaneuvers you.Go to the door, but before you open it, take the dog by the collar, move her back from the doorway, look her straight in the eye and say, "HALT!" in a commanding voice. Using your hand as a barrier in front of her face while using the "halt" command reinforces the message.Eventually, open the door a bit, but not wide enough for her to slip through. If she tries to get out, quickly shut the door, grab her collar, push her back and correct her with a firm "NO!" Give her the "HALT!" command and hand motion again.Repeat this exercise several times a day using all the doors in your house. Make sure to praise her when she actually does stay!Outdoor Boundary TrainingBefore you begin, assess your neighborhood: its residents and its risks.Walk the dog on a leash around the perimeter of your property several times a day. Do not let the dog roam freely outside.Each time she begins to wander over your property line, firmly say, "NO," give a little jerk on the leash and walk her back inside the line.Continue this process several times a day.Be ready with plenty of positive reinforcements (treats, pats, verbal praise) to reward the dog for coming when called or staying when told.
http://goodpuppy.blogspot.com/
Monday, 11 August 2008
sitstayfetch- The Ultimate House Training Guide -
What Is It? This handy manual is a comprehensive guide to what’s arguably the most widespread, challenging and frustrating issue faced by any and all dog-owners: house training. Has any aspect of dog ownership ever been so widely misunderstood and unanimously dreaded?
Theories both unhelpful and just plain wrong positively abound on the topic. You can find a veritable vortex of conflicting arguments almost anywhere you choose to seek information on the subject, whether it’s online (o, the staggering variation on the “The Only Way To House train Your Dog!” theme to be found here!), at your local library, through contact with dog trainers, or through the (less reputable but nevertheless prolific) ranks of “quack” dog trainers : aka, those frustrating people sans qualifications, but with enough smugness and pseudo-savoir faire to fool the less suspicious of us into handing over our hard-earned dosh.What Sets This Book Apart?After several confounding and increasingly-frustrated hours spent trawling through the virtual minefield of conflicting information on this subject, it was with a heady mixture of joy and near-tearful relief that I stumbled across an online book entitled “The Ultimate House Training Guide”, by Martin Olliver. As the title suggests, literally all aspects of the subject are covered, and in a manner both chatty and educational – it’s kind of like having a friendly conversation with a knowledgeable canine behaviorist (with the added benefit of being able to refresh your understanding of the matter at any given time, simply by scrolling back to the relevant section!)
The tone of the book presents a welcome contrast to the illogicalities so freely available elsewhere on the Net (and, indeed, in most repositories of canine “expertise”): it’s friendly, informative, and above all, commonsensical. No gimmicky recommendations, poorly-disguised marketing ploys, or too-brief Q&A sessions here: you don’t have to be experienced in canine behavior and training to see that this guy knows what he’s talking about (and did I mention he’s a vet?)
What’s Actually Included? There’s a quick section on the tools of the trade (“patience, persistence, consistence, and common sense”) along with some morale-boosting advice on how to keep your cool through the training process, and then it’s straight into the meat of the matter: the nitty-gritty on how to house train, with a detailed section (one for pups, one for older dogs) on each of the three methods recommended (paper-training, crate-training, and the direct method.)
Common house training problems are dealt with next – this is particularly handy! A huge variety of issues are covered, from territorial marking to poop-eating; and on top of that, each problem comes with a case study, which helps you to put the information into context.
Next, health-related problems are covered in some depth. There’s a section on congenital problems (problems your dog was born with); a section on the disease-related problems that develop later in life; and a section on other problems related to house training, like inappropriate outdoor elimination, or lawn-burn from urination.
Finally, there’s the Top Ten Tips for hassle-free house training, which is essentially a recap of the most helpful and necessary attitude adjustments, practical tips, and useful nuggets of general knowledge which will come in most handy in your dog’s training.
Just Because It’s Detailed Doesn’t Mean It’s ConfusingSound like a handful? It’s actually very user-friendly. Not only is this book packed with sound practical advice, but the whole thing is laid out in a very logical and easy-to-understand format: the tone is light and non-threatening (no confusing terminology or strange gaps in logic here!) and it proceeds in a logical manner from step to step, with the assistance of helpful how-to illustrations from the book’s charming mascot (a pooch called, of all things, Spot-Less).
TroubleshootingIn my opinion, one of the best parts: a free, personalized email consultation with the team at Kingdom of Pets. If you’d like additional help with your own dog’s toilet-related vagaries, just flick them off an email and you’ll get an individualized professional opinion on how best to handle the problem - plus any additional tips and strategies necessary to get your house training under control.
The VerdictHouse training a dog is an intimidating task for most people, but the author’s depth of knowledge is pretty reassuring; and he certainly knows how to break it down for even the greenest of owners. In addition to the main sections detailed above, there are plenty of tempting extras included to make the process as easy and effective as possible: checklists, do’s and don’ts, how to appropriately deal with “accidents”, even a list of the more helpful training products available!
All in all, two thumbs up from me: when the information on hand is as detailed, easy to absorb, and - above all – reliable as The Ultimate House Training Guide, you really can’t go wrong. May your dog’s initiation to house training proceed Spot-Lessly!
Click on link to find out secrets of Dog training
What Is It? This handy manual is a comprehensive guide to what’s arguably the most widespread, challenging and frustrating issue faced by any and all dog-owners: house training. Has any aspect of dog ownership ever been so widely misunderstood and unanimously dreaded?
Theories both unhelpful and just plain wrong positively abound on the topic. You can find a veritable vortex of conflicting arguments almost anywhere you choose to seek information on the subject, whether it’s online (o, the staggering variation on the “The Only Way To House train Your Dog!” theme to be found here!), at your local library, through contact with dog trainers, or through the (less reputable but nevertheless prolific) ranks of “quack” dog trainers : aka, those frustrating people sans qualifications, but with enough smugness and pseudo-savoir faire to fool the less suspicious of us into handing over our hard-earned dosh.What Sets This Book Apart?After several confounding and increasingly-frustrated hours spent trawling through the virtual minefield of conflicting information on this subject, it was with a heady mixture of joy and near-tearful relief that I stumbled across an online book entitled “The Ultimate House Training Guide”, by Martin Olliver. As the title suggests, literally all aspects of the subject are covered, and in a manner both chatty and educational – it’s kind of like having a friendly conversation with a knowledgeable canine behaviorist (with the added benefit of being able to refresh your understanding of the matter at any given time, simply by scrolling back to the relevant section!)
The tone of the book presents a welcome contrast to the illogicalities so freely available elsewhere on the Net (and, indeed, in most repositories of canine “expertise”): it’s friendly, informative, and above all, commonsensical. No gimmicky recommendations, poorly-disguised marketing ploys, or too-brief Q&A sessions here: you don’t have to be experienced in canine behavior and training to see that this guy knows what he’s talking about (and did I mention he’s a vet?)
What’s Actually Included? There’s a quick section on the tools of the trade (“patience, persistence, consistence, and common sense”) along with some morale-boosting advice on how to keep your cool through the training process, and then it’s straight into the meat of the matter: the nitty-gritty on how to house train, with a detailed section (one for pups, one for older dogs) on each of the three methods recommended (paper-training, crate-training, and the direct method.)
Common house training problems are dealt with next – this is particularly handy! A huge variety of issues are covered, from territorial marking to poop-eating; and on top of that, each problem comes with a case study, which helps you to put the information into context.
Next, health-related problems are covered in some depth. There’s a section on congenital problems (problems your dog was born with); a section on the disease-related problems that develop later in life; and a section on other problems related to house training, like inappropriate outdoor elimination, or lawn-burn from urination.
Finally, there’s the Top Ten Tips for hassle-free house training, which is essentially a recap of the most helpful and necessary attitude adjustments, practical tips, and useful nuggets of general knowledge which will come in most handy in your dog’s training.
Just Because It’s Detailed Doesn’t Mean It’s ConfusingSound like a handful? It’s actually very user-friendly. Not only is this book packed with sound practical advice, but the whole thing is laid out in a very logical and easy-to-understand format: the tone is light and non-threatening (no confusing terminology or strange gaps in logic here!) and it proceeds in a logical manner from step to step, with the assistance of helpful how-to illustrations from the book’s charming mascot (a pooch called, of all things, Spot-Less).
TroubleshootingIn my opinion, one of the best parts: a free, personalized email consultation with the team at Kingdom of Pets. If you’d like additional help with your own dog’s toilet-related vagaries, just flick them off an email and you’ll get an individualized professional opinion on how best to handle the problem - plus any additional tips and strategies necessary to get your house training under control.
The VerdictHouse training a dog is an intimidating task for most people, but the author’s depth of knowledge is pretty reassuring; and he certainly knows how to break it down for even the greenest of owners. In addition to the main sections detailed above, there are plenty of tempting extras included to make the process as easy and effective as possible: checklists, do’s and don’ts, how to appropriately deal with “accidents”, even a list of the more helpful training products available!
All in all, two thumbs up from me: when the information on hand is as detailed, easy to absorb, and - above all – reliable as The Ultimate House Training Guide, you really can’t go wrong. May your dog’s initiation to house training proceed Spot-Lessly!
Click on link to find out secrets of Dog training
Dog Training: Stop your dog pulling on the lead
I really enjoyed this guys comments on walking your dog so thought id share it with all you nice people.
Nothing takes more fun out of walking your dog than being dragged every inch of the way and having a sore arm to show for it.
So why do they pull us from pillar to post? Well they pull because they want to move forwards to see what is interesting ahead. Ok, so nothing to insightful there, but guess what, the very fact that we move forward when they pull, fully reinforces to the dog the value of pulling. So, whose fault is it that they learn to pull on the lead - you guessed it.
In the past, many people turned to choke chains as a means to discourage lead pulling. Apart from the obvious discomfort to dogs, methods such as this have been superseded with more positive and reward base techniques.
There is only one way to avoid reinforcing pulling on the lead and that is of course …… not moving forward when they do. So when do you move forwards? Only when you have the attention of your dog and the lead is slack.
If your dog is trying to pull and getting nowhere, it will soon stop and look back at you to see why you have stopped. The action of looking back will slacken the lead and the minute your dog catches your eye, say GOOD DOG, give him a treat and start walking forward again. The second the lead goes tight, stop and repeat the process.
I know from practice, this takes perseverance, but it is worth it in the long run. Once your dog successfully walks without pulling on the lead, you can then start working on the heel command to teach your dog to walk along side of you.http://goodpuppy.blogspot.com/
Nothing takes more fun out of walking your dog than being dragged every inch of the way and having a sore arm to show for it.
So why do they pull us from pillar to post? Well they pull because they want to move forwards to see what is interesting ahead. Ok, so nothing to insightful there, but guess what, the very fact that we move forward when they pull, fully reinforces to the dog the value of pulling. So, whose fault is it that they learn to pull on the lead - you guessed it.
In the past, many people turned to choke chains as a means to discourage lead pulling. Apart from the obvious discomfort to dogs, methods such as this have been superseded with more positive and reward base techniques.
There is only one way to avoid reinforcing pulling on the lead and that is of course …… not moving forward when they do. So when do you move forwards? Only when you have the attention of your dog and the lead is slack.
If your dog is trying to pull and getting nowhere, it will soon stop and look back at you to see why you have stopped. The action of looking back will slacken the lead and the minute your dog catches your eye, say GOOD DOG, give him a treat and start walking forward again. The second the lead goes tight, stop and repeat the process.
I know from practice, this takes perseverance, but it is worth it in the long run. Once your dog successfully walks without pulling on the lead, you can then start working on the heel command to teach your dog to walk along side of you.http://goodpuppy.blogspot.com/
Sunday, 10 August 2008
dog aggression
It is known that interdog aggression is separate from aggression towards humans. You should consult your veterinarian regarding your dog's aggressive behavior in order to rule out potential medical causes, because there are more than 50 medical problems which can cause aggression.
Often it is very difficult for us humans to read the body language of dogs that are highly likely to or have intentions to attack us. These signals are not exhibited in the same way by different breeds; an erect tail cannot be seen as readily in a dog such as an Akita or Chow which has a curling tail, pulled-back ears are less visible in a dog that has drooping ears like a Weimaraner, and raised hackles can be difficult to see clearly in a Collie or other long-haired breed.
Most of the victims of dog attacks are members of the family, neighbors or friends of the owner. Attacks occur more often in cities or towns instead of more rural areas due to overcrowding. The sad thing is that children are often the victims. The frequency of surgery for facial reconstruction for young children isn't nearly as much for car and other accidents as it is for dog aggression.
Obviously, if a dog was bred to guard, we cannot be surprised that it is aggressive, and does guard. We cannot be completely surprised if dog guards and behaves aggressively as it is trained to do so.
You won't usually see a dog attack suddenly without an apparent reason; these types of attacks are virtually unknown. How many times have you heard "Oh, he never does that!” when a dog attacks you? I knew a woman who said that after her dog attacked me. This woman may need to be tested for Alzheimer's after the dog did it again and she uttered the same thing.
Some people refuse to believe that their dog is behaving badly. They may make excuses based on their perception of the breed, thinking that an aggressive Terrier, nipping Collie or a growling miniature breed is behaving appropriately. This way of thinking means that the dog is not checked when the behavior is first noticed, allowing it to become stronger and eventually impossible to eliminate.
There are many categories of aggression, including predatory, territorial, protective, sexual, and nervous/fear aggression, but perhaps the most common is fear based. Keep in mind that it is unlikely for a dog to have just one of these problems, and a very dangerous combination is dominant and nervous/fear aggression. Aggressiveness usually is a consequence of game play in the animal's early life, especially with other dogs in the home, as well as interaction with other canines.
Being a responsible owner and controlling even playful behavior allows the owner to exercise control over their dog, aiding in improving on unacceptable behaviors. Non-neutered males are the most likely to demonstrate dominance aggression, exhibiting this behavior more often than neutered males or females. It's likely that this is controlled via androgen, as females that show aggressive behavior and are spayed get more aggressive. Dominance aggression and protective aggression are ranked as the first and second most common reasons for treatment by behaviorists.
Aggression between dogs is usually a social problem that may arise between dogs in the same household; while never caused by hormones, it often starts at age 18 to 24 months, when the dog becomes socially mature. The dog will behave in reaction to what the other dog did, when the dog is challenged by a stare or a bump or body block.
When strange dogs meet and fight, they are most often responding in a form of protective aggression, although lead aggression can sometimes play a part in this as well. One key factor of interdog aggression is that aggressive intentions are not shown to any other animals. The dog may get along fine with different species from itself such as cats or horses. One trigger of protective aggression in dogs is unexpected, sudden movement. The dog often inhibits this behavior when its owners are not there to be protected, or if they are in a strange place such as a dog show. Dominance aggression may have a genetic component and occurs much more often in males -- who account for 90% of all cases -- then becomes evident with social maturity at 18 to 24 months, worsening with acts of punishment. This form of aggression can be found as early as the 8 week puppy test. If aggression is identified at a very young age, early intervention can save the dog, but not all dogs with dominant aggression are able to be diagnosed as such at only 8 weeks of age.
Most dogs occasionally show signs of territorial aggression, such as barking when someone comes to the door, near your car, or walks past on the sidewalk. Every social animal will occasionally demonstrate aggression as a means of protection. Fences, especially electric ones, and chains intensify this by allowing the animal to constantly stand guard and defend. Another contributing factor is evident when guests are met at the front door while the dog is being restrained by his collar.
There is more growling, snarling, biting and staring for dominance aggression in contrast to protective aggression. When dogs bark, it signifies protective aggression; for example, consider a dog barking when a person passes a garden.
Dominance aggression is known to be a concept of control and is different from possession of objects (food aggression) or challenges (will the dog get off of that sofa or will it growl?). Dominance aggressions is likely to happen with men owners who like to have their dogs "big and tough" and also some breeds are just more likely to be diagnosed with it.
However, the worst cases of dominant aggressive dogs are often small dogs such as Toy Poodles, Shih Tzus or Chihuahuas, as their behavior is often tolerated by the owners as innocent and playful. Over fifteen actions can be used to reduce dominant aggression; these include bending over them, signaling with the leash, staring fixedly, or pushing on their behinds. There are approximately 20 signs that the dog will become dominant aggressive, including actions that seem innocent and may even be freely permitted for small breeds: leaning against you, standing on your feet, jumping into your lap without permission or blocking your passage through a doorway.
Dogs that have dominance or control complex aggression are categorized as those who consider themselves "alphas" who can control others to get their way, generally a poor prognosis. There are also dogs who exhibit potential for aggressive behavior.
First, even though a dog may exhibit some types of aggressive behavior, dominance aggression, which is about control, may not occur.
Second, the dog's behavior is permitted by the owner, progressing through various types of dominance aggression such as leaning, pushing, jumping into someone's lap without permission or standing on a person. The dog then thinks it's the boss, similar to situations where adolescents may talk back to test their boundaries. These dogs have variances in behavior based on exposure to a given individual. The dog might not show aggression with an expert trainer, since the trainer is the boss; or, when the dog is eating, it might not bark at those passing by. The dog will choose the time when it doesn't want to react and the times it wants to interrupt or inhibit aggressive beahaviour. This is the kind of dog that it is easiest to work with, since the animal is able to take cues from context and then behave properly.
However, the role of genetics in this behavior is difficult, if not impossible to determine because behavioral development is also largely based on environmental influences. In the case that the dog had a genetic tendency but its owner trained it well from puppyhood, for example not to bark at the door, it may never express the behavior. There can also be times when a dog that is genetically less likely but encouraged to exhibit the behaviour becomes a huge problem.
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Often it is very difficult for us humans to read the body language of dogs that are highly likely to or have intentions to attack us. These signals are not exhibited in the same way by different breeds; an erect tail cannot be seen as readily in a dog such as an Akita or Chow which has a curling tail, pulled-back ears are less visible in a dog that has drooping ears like a Weimaraner, and raised hackles can be difficult to see clearly in a Collie or other long-haired breed.
Most of the victims of dog attacks are members of the family, neighbors or friends of the owner. Attacks occur more often in cities or towns instead of more rural areas due to overcrowding. The sad thing is that children are often the victims. The frequency of surgery for facial reconstruction for young children isn't nearly as much for car and other accidents as it is for dog aggression.
Obviously, if a dog was bred to guard, we cannot be surprised that it is aggressive, and does guard. We cannot be completely surprised if dog guards and behaves aggressively as it is trained to do so.
You won't usually see a dog attack suddenly without an apparent reason; these types of attacks are virtually unknown. How many times have you heard "Oh, he never does that!” when a dog attacks you? I knew a woman who said that after her dog attacked me. This woman may need to be tested for Alzheimer's after the dog did it again and she uttered the same thing.
Some people refuse to believe that their dog is behaving badly. They may make excuses based on their perception of the breed, thinking that an aggressive Terrier, nipping Collie or a growling miniature breed is behaving appropriately. This way of thinking means that the dog is not checked when the behavior is first noticed, allowing it to become stronger and eventually impossible to eliminate.
There are many categories of aggression, including predatory, territorial, protective, sexual, and nervous/fear aggression, but perhaps the most common is fear based. Keep in mind that it is unlikely for a dog to have just one of these problems, and a very dangerous combination is dominant and nervous/fear aggression. Aggressiveness usually is a consequence of game play in the animal's early life, especially with other dogs in the home, as well as interaction with other canines.
Being a responsible owner and controlling even playful behavior allows the owner to exercise control over their dog, aiding in improving on unacceptable behaviors. Non-neutered males are the most likely to demonstrate dominance aggression, exhibiting this behavior more often than neutered males or females. It's likely that this is controlled via androgen, as females that show aggressive behavior and are spayed get more aggressive. Dominance aggression and protective aggression are ranked as the first and second most common reasons for treatment by behaviorists.
Aggression between dogs is usually a social problem that may arise between dogs in the same household; while never caused by hormones, it often starts at age 18 to 24 months, when the dog becomes socially mature. The dog will behave in reaction to what the other dog did, when the dog is challenged by a stare or a bump or body block.
When strange dogs meet and fight, they are most often responding in a form of protective aggression, although lead aggression can sometimes play a part in this as well. One key factor of interdog aggression is that aggressive intentions are not shown to any other animals. The dog may get along fine with different species from itself such as cats or horses. One trigger of protective aggression in dogs is unexpected, sudden movement. The dog often inhibits this behavior when its owners are not there to be protected, or if they are in a strange place such as a dog show. Dominance aggression may have a genetic component and occurs much more often in males -- who account for 90% of all cases -- then becomes evident with social maturity at 18 to 24 months, worsening with acts of punishment. This form of aggression can be found as early as the 8 week puppy test. If aggression is identified at a very young age, early intervention can save the dog, but not all dogs with dominant aggression are able to be diagnosed as such at only 8 weeks of age.
Most dogs occasionally show signs of territorial aggression, such as barking when someone comes to the door, near your car, or walks past on the sidewalk. Every social animal will occasionally demonstrate aggression as a means of protection. Fences, especially electric ones, and chains intensify this by allowing the animal to constantly stand guard and defend. Another contributing factor is evident when guests are met at the front door while the dog is being restrained by his collar.
There is more growling, snarling, biting and staring for dominance aggression in contrast to protective aggression. When dogs bark, it signifies protective aggression; for example, consider a dog barking when a person passes a garden.
Dominance aggression is known to be a concept of control and is different from possession of objects (food aggression) or challenges (will the dog get off of that sofa or will it growl?). Dominance aggressions is likely to happen with men owners who like to have their dogs "big and tough" and also some breeds are just more likely to be diagnosed with it.
However, the worst cases of dominant aggressive dogs are often small dogs such as Toy Poodles, Shih Tzus or Chihuahuas, as their behavior is often tolerated by the owners as innocent and playful. Over fifteen actions can be used to reduce dominant aggression; these include bending over them, signaling with the leash, staring fixedly, or pushing on their behinds. There are approximately 20 signs that the dog will become dominant aggressive, including actions that seem innocent and may even be freely permitted for small breeds: leaning against you, standing on your feet, jumping into your lap without permission or blocking your passage through a doorway.
Dogs that have dominance or control complex aggression are categorized as those who consider themselves "alphas" who can control others to get their way, generally a poor prognosis. There are also dogs who exhibit potential for aggressive behavior.
First, even though a dog may exhibit some types of aggressive behavior, dominance aggression, which is about control, may not occur.
Second, the dog's behavior is permitted by the owner, progressing through various types of dominance aggression such as leaning, pushing, jumping into someone's lap without permission or standing on a person. The dog then thinks it's the boss, similar to situations where adolescents may talk back to test their boundaries. These dogs have variances in behavior based on exposure to a given individual. The dog might not show aggression with an expert trainer, since the trainer is the boss; or, when the dog is eating, it might not bark at those passing by. The dog will choose the time when it doesn't want to react and the times it wants to interrupt or inhibit aggressive beahaviour. This is the kind of dog that it is easiest to work with, since the animal is able to take cues from context and then behave properly.
However, the role of genetics in this behavior is difficult, if not impossible to determine because behavioral development is also largely based on environmental influences. In the case that the dog had a genetic tendency but its owner trained it well from puppyhood, for example not to bark at the door, it may never express the behavior. There can also be times when a dog that is genetically less likely but encouraged to exhibit the behaviour becomes a huge problem.
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